You can brew excellent beer with straight tap water. But once your process is solid, water adjustments are the easiest way to sharpen a pale ale or round out a stout. The good news is that you don’t need a chemistry degree. You need a water report, a couple of salts, and a willingness to make small, measured changes.
Your water supplier publishes an annual report, usually online. Look for the ions that matter to brewers: calcium, magnesium, sodium, sulphate, chloride, and bicarbonate (or alkalinity). If you can’t find those figures, an aquarium test kit or a laboratory analysis will fill the gaps. Don’t worry about pH from the report; it changes once you add grain.
One thing to sort first: chlorine and chloramine. Half a crushed campden tablet (sodium metabisulphite) in 23 litres of brewing water will remove them almost instantly. Skip this and you risk medicinal, plastic flavours.
Almost every adjustment you’ll make uses one or both of these. Gypsum (calcium sulphate) adds sulphate and calcium. It makes hops pop and can give a crisp, lingering bitterness. Calcium chloride adds chloride and calcium. It softens the edges of roasted grains and makes malt taste sweeter and fuller without actually adding sugar.
Use a small digital scale, not spoons, for repeatability. As a rough guide for a 23-litre batch:
Add them to the mash, not the boil, so they also help mash pH. Stir well.
The ratio of sulphate to chloride is your main lever. Think of it as a dial between crisp and round. For a hoppy West Coast IPA or a bitter, aim for 2:1 sulphate to chloride. For a milk stout, a porter, or a mild, aim for 1:2. For a balanced pale ale or lager, 1:1 is a safe start.
Example: your water has 50 ppm sulphate and 30 ppm chloride. For a 23-litre IPA, add 1.5 teaspoons of gypsum and 0.5 teaspoon of calcium chloride. That pushes sulphate to around 200 ppm and chloride to about 70 ppm. For a stout, reverse those amounts. Taste the difference in the first pint.
Alkalinity is the biggest obstacle for many UK brewers, especially in hard water areas. Your mash pH should sit between 5.2 and 5.4. Above 5.5, you get dull, harsh bitterness and poor efficiency. Below 5.0, the beer tastes thin and acidic.
Dark grains lower pH naturally, so a stout might need no acid at all. Pale malt raises pH, so a lager or pale ale often needs a nudge. If your pH is too high, add 1–2 ml of lactic acid per 10 litres of mash water, stir, and recheck after five minutes. Or use 1–2% acidulated malt in the grain bill. If your pH is too low, add a quarter teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda per 23 litres and recheck. Always measure with a calibrated pH meter—paper strips are not accurate enough.
Here’s a practical sequence for your next brew day:
The same principles apply to cider making and coffee brewing. In cider, a touch of gypsum sharpens apple flavour, while calcium chloride softens acidity. In coffee, a little magnesium and calcium improves extraction, but too much sulphate makes it taste dry and papery. Water is the silent ingredient in every brew. Adjust it gently, and everything else tastes more like itself.
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